Stawamus Chief
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
| Stawamus Chief | |
|---|---|
Stawamus Chief | |
| Elevation | 702 m (2,303 ft) |
| Location | British Columbia, Canada |
| Range | Pacific Ranges |
| Prominence | 417 m (1,368 ft) |
| Coordinates | 49°41.2′N 123°08.1′W / 49.6867°N 123.135°WCoordinates: 49°41.2′N 123°08.1′W / 49.6867°N 123.135°W |
| Topo map | NTS 92G/11 |
| Type | Granite dome |
| Age of rock | Formed Late Cretaceous Exposed Holocene |
| First ascent | Prehistoric |
| Easiest route | hike |
The Stawamus Chief (often referred to as simply The Chief, or erroneously as the Squamish Chief) is a granite dome located adjacent to the town of Squamish, British Columbia. It towers over 700 m (2,297 ft) above the waters of nearby Howe Sound. It is often claimed to be the "second largest granite monolith in the world."[1] The Sḵwxwú7mesh, indigenous people from this area, consider the Chief to be a place of spiritual significance. The mountain gets its name from their village near its foot, St'a7mes (Stawamus).
The Park
In 1997 the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park was established by the British Columbia Ministry of the Environment. The park is over 5 square kilometres in area and encompasses not only the Chief but also the Stawamus Squaw, a slightly smaller granitic dome located a short distance to the north-east. Also featured in the park are a walk-in campground and a number of maintained hiking trails which lead through the forest of the Chief's "backside" to several summit areas. Stawamus Chief Provincial Park is a popular tourist destination.
[edit] Geology
The Chief is part of a medium-sized pluton of a granitic rock (granodiorite) that was initially formed in the early Cretaceous (approximately 100 million years ago) by the slow cooling and solidification of molten magma deep below the surface of the Earth. Exhumation of the granite body probably occurred mostly by erosion of overlying rocks over tens of millions of years, with glacial erosion processes dominating exhumation over the last 2.5 million years. Once exposed at the surface, the original granite body was shaped by glacial erosion, which is responsible for the tall steep walls that define the Chief, as well as the excavation of Howe Sound, a fjord. Classic hallmarks of glacial erosion are ubiquitous, especially polished, striated surfaces. Polish and striations observable at the very summit of the formation require that, at the peak of glaciation, the entire formation was buried under a substantial thickness of ice.
The striking gullies that separate and define the three summits of the Chief are the result of fracturing and mass-wasting of large blocks along a series of vertical, and roughly north-south oriented deep seated fracture sets (joints).
The Chief may be the root of an extinct volcano because no volcanic activity has occurred in the Squamish area from about 86 million years ago to the beginning of Garibaldi Volcanic Belt volcanism about 2-3 million years ago. In the Squamish area, Garibaldi Volcanic Belt volcanism ceased during or shorty after the end of the last ice age.
[edit] Topography and features
The Chief measures approximately three square kilometres. In summary, there are several summits separated by several deep gullies. Steep cliffs separate the summits from the forest floor in many places, especially the western faces.
[edit] Summits
There are three main summit areas:
- First Peak or the South Summit (610 m (2,001 ft))
- Second Peak or the Centre Summit (655 m (2,149 ft))
- Third Peak or the North Summit (702 m (2,303 ft))
Each summit features an expanse of fine glacier-polished granite and the promise of incredible views in all directions. Third Peak is a bit more remote and isolated and is less popular with tourists.
An additional summit area lies to the north of all the summits. This area is called the Zodiac Summit. Although it can be considered a sub-summit of Third Peak, it is perhaps the most isolated area of the Chief. No proper trail leads to the Zodiac Summit; there are only faint tracks here and there among the trees.
[edit] Hiking trails
All of the three main summits are accessible via the Chief's maintained backside hiking trails. These trails are steep and rugged. In fact, in several high places there are short sections of "trail" that are so steep and/or slippery, that chains and ladders have been bolted to the rock for aid.
Taken on
September 27, 2008 at 4.34pm PDT
Posted to Flickr
September 27, 2008 at 10.20pm PDT
Uploaded by p.m.w on 27 Sep 08, 10.20PM PDT.
Sḵwx̱wú7mesh
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Sḵwx̱wú7mesh[1][2][3][4] (pronounced [sqʷχʷúʔməʃ](
listen)), or Squamish, are an indigenous people of southwestern British Columbia, a part of the Salishan-speaking people. They speak the Sḵwx̱wú7mesh language, which is a part of the Coast Salish linguistic grouping. When translated, Sḵwx̱wú7mesh renders into the people of the sacred water, referencing what they believe is the water in their territory and its spiritual healing properties. Their traditional territory covers the Indian Arm, along Burrard Inlet, through False Creek then English Bay and Point Grey serving as the southern border. From here, it continued northward to Roberts Creek on the Sunshine Coast, up the Howe Sound. The northern part included the Squamish, Cheakamus, Elaho and Mamquam rivers. Up the Cheakamus River it included land past Whistler, British Columbia. Their people live mostly in seven communities in West Vancouver, North Vancouver, and near the town of Squamish.
Their history, literature, law, and other knowledge were transmitted by oral tradition across generations without a writing system, and today forms the fundamental source for most of their history. Stories of supernatural events, creatures, and people along with stories of ancestors were passed on through oral tradition. This continued until after contact with Europeans in 1791, when drastic changes began to occur for their people and culture. Later much of the remaining oral tradition was collected by anthropologists and ethnographers, but much of the culture is still passed on orally too. Before official contact, in the 1770s, foreign diseases devastated much of the population. For decades following, more diseases, including influenza, reduced the population significantly. This, along with the influx of new foreigners, usurpation of their ancestral lands, and later policies of assimilation by the Canadian government, caused a significant shift in their culture.
Historically they lived in villages in communal houses made out of cedar poles and planks. These longhouses would be home to extended kinship families, with different branches of a family living in different quarters of the house. Permanent homes would be built during the winter months where most life was occupied either in ceremony or living in the house with minimal travel. In the springtime, families would begin work to gather resources and food and start traveling to resource sites to provide food, fiber, and other materials for their families. They would travel by dugout cedar canoes to other locations and live there during the warmer months. Fishing, hunting, trapping, gathering, and berry picking would sustain families as they began to preserve foods for the winter months to come. The summer would also be marked by travel to neighbouring nations to visit relatives and attend large events called potlatches.
Pre-contact
During the 1770s, smallpox (variola major) eradicated at least 30 percent of the indigenous population on the Northwest coast of North America, including many Skwxwu7mesh. This disease was one of the most deadly that hit the region over the next 80 to 100 years. During the 80 year period from the 1770s to 1850, smallpox, measles, influenza, and other diseases had killed many villages and communities. In oral histories that survived, describes the 1770s epidemic. An "aged informant" of the Sḵwxwú7mesh, in the 1890s, related the history of a catastrophic illness to ethnographer Charles Hill-Tout. He wrote:
“[A] dreadful misfortune befell them. … One salmon season the fish were found to be covered with running sores and blotches, which rendered them unfit for food. As the people depended very largely upon these salmon for their winter’s food supply, they were obliged to catch and cure them as best they could, and store them away for food. They put off eating them till no other food was available, and then began a terrible time of sickness and distress. A dreadful skin disease, loathsome to look upon, broke out upon all alike. None were spared. Men, women, and children sickened, took the disease and died in agony by hundreds, so that when the spring arrived and fresh food was procurable, there was scarcely a person left of all their numbers to get it. Camp after camp, village after village, was left desolate. The remains of which, said the old man, in answer by my queries on this, are found today in the old camp sites or midden-heaps over which the forest has been growing for so many generations. Little by little the remnant left by the disease grew into a nation again, and when the first white men sailed up the Squamish in their big boats, the tribe was strong and numerous again”[7]
The epidemic of the 1770s was the first and the most devastating more to follow. During the next few decades other damaging outbreaks would attack this area. A smallpox epidemic in 1800-1801, influenza in 1836-1837, measles in 1847-1848, smallpox again in 1862. wiki 7.10.09
Taken on
August 11, 2008 at 7.31pm PDT
Posted to Flickr
September 21, 2008 at 10.19pm PDT
Uploaded by p.m.w on 21 Sep 08, 10.19PM PDT.
Stawamus Chief cont'd...
Characteristics
[edit] Gullies
The three main summits of the Chief are separated by several deep clefts known as the gullies. These chasms are steep and are partially filled with debris, mostly talus and scree. They were apparently excavated primarily by glacier action.
- South Gully: the Chief's biggest and most noticeable gully, it separates First Peak from Second Peak.
- North Gully: a dark and narrow gully near the north end of the Chief, it separates Second Peak from the "Zodiac Summit".
- North-North Gully: even darker and narrower, this gully separates the "Zodiac Summit" from Third Peak.
There is an additional smaller gully near the south end of the Chief called Bullethead Gully which somewhat separates the Bulletheads region from the rest of the Chief. This gully is very bushy and is much less dramatic than the main gullies mentioned above.
[edit] The Apron
The Apron is a vast sweep of lower-angle rock which rises like a wedge from the highway to about halfway up the Grand Wall near the Chief's approximate centre. There it meets with a rising ridge of rock known as the Squamish Buttress, and promptly terminates in the great chasm known as the South Gully.
[edit] Rock faces
The Chief's summits are surrounded by sheer rock wall cliffs. They are typically high, exposed, and surprisingly varied in character. Several of the Chief's more notable rock faces are as follows:
- Grand Wall: the centrepiece of the Chief, this steep and pale wall rises over highway 99 just south of the Apron.
- Bulletheads: a region of oddly rounded bulges near the southern end of the Chief.
- Dihedral Wall: this featured expanse of rock is situated between the Grand Wall and Tantalus Wall. In the spring and early summer it is a nesting area for peregrine falcons.
- Tantalus Wall: the sheer face separating the contrasting features of the Dihedral Wall and the Bulletheads. Also a nesting area for peregrine falcons.
- Sheriff's Badge: a white-coloured, star-shaped exfoliation scar north-east of the Apron. Sometimes called "the Witch" by local townsfolk.
- Zodiac Wall: located at the northernmost end of the Chief, this rock face is dark, isolated, and seldom visited.
The Chief's rock faces, especially the Grand Wall, exhibit the unique textural patterns which result from the process of granitic exfoliation. This is the natural means by which large, high-quality granite formations weather, erode, and age. Rather than crumbling and slowly wearing away, large flakes of granite tend to shear off and drop from the face in layers. On impact with the ground below, the shattered flakes become boulders and talus.
Sometimes a flake will partially split away while remaining attached to the rock face. An excellent example of a partially-detached flake on the Chief is the renowned Split Pillar on the Grand Wall. The Chief's rock faces are characterized by varied rock features including overhanging roofs, splitter cracks, rock chimneys, dihedrals, ledges, platforms, and lower angle slabs.
[edit] The Black Dyke
This feature divides the Grand Wall from the Dihedral Wall to the south. This feature is considerably younger than the pale granodiorite rock surrounding it. It formed by the splitting of the solid granodiorite along a vertical fracture, which created a conduit for basalt and andesite magmas, which may have fed volcanoes on the surface above the then-buried granitic rock. These younger magmas cooled quite quickly, which results in a very fine grained, almost glassy texture. The resulting dyke is now clearly visible from the Chief's main parking area.
[edit] Forest
At the base and around the perimeter of the Chief are thick forests. Although not exactly old growth these stands of trees are representative of pacific coastal temperate rain forest common in the area. Typical tree species are Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, Sitka Spruce, and Alder.
[edit] Boulders
Also at the base of the Chief's walls are a bewildering variety of medium-to-large size granite boulders. Once themselves part of the Chief, these boulders form groups which have been carefully explored by bouldering enthusiasts. Some of the boulders are so large as to seem like small cliffs in their own right. The largest is the Cacodemon Boulder at the base of the Grand Wall, an individual chunk of rock as big as a small apartment building.
[edit] Rock climbing
Because of the Chief and several other high-quality climbing areas in the vicinity, Squamish has become a world-class rock climbing destination. Squamish is sometimes referred to as "Yosemite North". In terms of structure, composition, and quality of the granitic rock, the Chief reportedly resembles Half Dome in the Yosemite Valley.
Kevin McLane, longtime rock climber and Squamish guidebook author, describes climbing at the Chief thus: "immense vertical walls, long cool slabs, sinuous dykes, and beautiful cracks offer a variety of climbing that is hard to match anywhere." [1] Almost every style of rock climbing at almost every possible skill level can be practiced here, including Traditional climbing, sport climbing, aid climbing, and bouldering. Since the Chief is practically at sea-level, the only climbing styles not normally represented are alpine climbing and ice climbing, though ample opportunities exist for these pursuits in the surrounding Coast Mountains.
Rock climber Peter Croft began what continues to be a long and illustrious climbing career in Squamish in the late 1970s. He astounded the climbing community by putting up a number of bold new free climbing routes on the Chief which, at the time, pushed the limits of what people thought was possible. More recently, Brad Zdanivsky became the first quadriplegic ever to reach the summit on 31 July 2005. In the summer of 2006, Sonnie Trotter established what is considered to be the hardest traditionally protected single rock pitch in North America, and possibly the world: Cobra Crack (5.14).
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